The Fineness And Softness Of Vicuna Fiber

By Jayne Rutledge


Vicuna fiber is one of the most silky and soft fibers on earth. This is because vicunas live at freezing altitudes and their coats have adapted to these conditions, being light and soft but very warm. It was the Incas who first extracted fibers which were woven into cloth and worn only by royalty. They regarded these animals as sacred.

During the reign of the Incas, more than two million vicunas roamed the Andes. Subsequent cultures, beginning with the Spanish conquerors, slaughtered many of these animals for their precious hides. By 1966 there were less than 5 000 left and the Peruvian government had to step in. The remaining herd was placed on a 12 000 acre reservation. Capture and shave programs were instituted which meant that local communities profited more from keeping the animals alive rather than killing them.

In 1994, three companies were selected to join a consortium formed by the Peruvian government. They had the right to process and export fabrics and finished products made from the fibers. The strategy of these companies has been to establish reserves where these animals are protected, bred and sheared. They are committed to keeping the quality and increasing the quantities available for export.

Vicunas are camelids that look like small llamas and their coats are a marvel of evolution. They are not only unusually light and soft but keep them warm at freezing altitudes. The fleece is neither hair or wool but more liker a downy covering that is sheared off the back and neck.

The fleece consists of two layers. The underneath layer is formed from densely packed fibers with tiny scales that lock together forming pockets filled with air for insulation. The outer layer is silky and long, varying in shade from dark fawn and golden brown to the color of wheat.

Traditional methods for processing these fibers have been handed down over centuries. The chacu, or traditional roundup ceremony established by the ancient Incas is still practiced today, although now it is strictly monitored. The ceremony involves the local population forming a circular human chain around the animals and slowly closing in on them, before taking them into small tents for shearing.

The scarcity of these fibers is also due to the fact that adults can only be sheared every two years. Yield is not that high either with an adult providing only about 120 grams after coarser fibers are removed. The fleece from more than one adult is required to make even a scarf. The fibers are about 12 microns in diameter as compared with cashmere which is about 15 microns. Besides being as soft as a cloud, they are very resilient.

What makes vicuna fiber even more precious is that, unlike goats, sheep and even alpacas, vicunas cannot survive in captivity, starving themselves to death when penned in. They have to be given freedom to roam in wilderness preserves. The relative scarcity and extraordinary expense continue to keep supply and demand limited. However, as more individuals become educated about this these extraordinary fibers, demand is growing worldwide.




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